Steeped in historical significance and next-generation know-how, Boyne Valley offered the perfect sisters' staycation. By Sarah Gill.
The funny thing about being from an island as small as Ireland is the innate comfortability of each rural townland. Regardless of what community you call home, there's an instant familiarity felt when traversing the country’s many highways and byways en route to your final destination.
Setting off to the Boyne Valley from Roscommon town, my sister and I passed through many villages on the two-hour journey, each offering its own unique iteration of places we know by heart. There’s the old school house, the men smoking outside the quiet country pub, the shop where you just know will have an incredible pick 'n mix section.
Ireland’s consistency is something I fell in love with in the aftermath of the pandemic. A time of re-discovery for many, staycations allowed us to reacquaint ourselves with what lies just beyond. How many people reading this can say that they’ve done all the typically tourist-y things on offer in your own local area? How many among us can say that they’ve been to all 32 counties, seen all the sights, embraced every avenue?
When annual leave days are to be taken sparingly and with great attention to detail, many of us choose to squirrel them away and splurge on a foreign holiday. However, while the Boyne Valley may not sound quite as exhilarating as Bali, once the out-of-office is switched on and holiday mode is activated, the good times are ready to roll.
For those otherwise unaware, the Boyne Valley encompasses county Meath and south county Louth, combining magnificent waterways, lush green landscapes, and bucket loads of historical and cultural significance.
From Trim Castle to James Griffin Pub
I set off on this staycation with my sister, Katie, who just so happens to be a primary school teacher currently on a career break to travel the world. No, I’m not at all jealous. Before she kicked off her excursion to southeast Asia, she deigned to accompany me to the birthplace of Ireland’s Ancient East, and we embraced every single moment of our three-day trip.
As a woman who regularly brings her class on school tours and visits to historical locations, Katie was in her element, and — just as she does with her pupils — encouraged me to adopt an ‘I wonder…’ mindset throughout, which came in handy during the first stop on our itinerary: Trim Castle.
Our guided tour was led by David, a man born and raised in Trim that was never taught the history of the castle in school, and has become a veritable expert all of his own accord. The foremost among the many medieval buildings in the town, Trim Castle just so happens to be the largest Anglo-Norman fortification in Ireland.
The tour took us all around the three-storey keep, around spiral staircases with uneven steps calculated to trip any unwelcome trespassers, and shrewdly placed pillars to prevent any swordplay while ascending to the next level. We were even given room to roam on the roof of the castle, and the views were nothing short of stunning.
At the site where many stunts from Braveheart were filmed, our Trim Castle tour guide gave us all the insider knowledge of the area and was on hand to answer any and all queries with jovial wit and expert insight.
From Trim Castle, we headed straight for Bee Wise, an award-winning tourist experience that brings visitors on a beautifully conserved nature trail. Now, since our trip took place in the days leading up to Halloween, our tour of the area was peppered with plenty of jump scares, which we’re told are very much ramped up for their grown-up guests.
Run by Claire and Paddy with the help of a number of young locals, this is the ideal destination for when you want to give your inner child a great day out. A total immersion into the beauty of nature, you’re put instantly at ease by these personable hosts and are welcomed to hang around their adorable play area, race through the maze, and toast marshmallows by the fireside — all in the great outdoors.
From here, we headed straight for Trim Castle Hotel to check into our room for the next two nights, and suffice to say — we were not disappointed. Located right across from the castle grounds, within walking distance to all the local pubs, cafés and restaurants, and complete with on-site parking, what more could you want?
A family-owned and operated hotel with a range of rooms to suit your needs, we opened the door to our Heritage Collection bedroom and we are yet to recover. From the positively massive king-sized bed to the access to a private balcony (which I just so happened to see a shooting star from), we were hard pushed to rouse ourselves from our prosecco-induced slumber and part with our bathrobes in time for dinner, which luckily happened to be in a restaurant just over the road.
A clear local favourite, The StockHouse is the result of four people with a shared love of food, food times, and good value. Warmly welcomed in by the front-of-house staff, we mused over the extensive menu, which has options ranging from burgers and steaks to curries and pasta. They’ve even got specific selections of ‘green cuisine’ for the vegan and veggies, and a ‘fitness pan’ for those on a diet plan.
A cosy restaurant with infinite charm and signs prompting customers to leave their phones in their bags and engage in some good old-fashioned conversation, from starters right through to mains we overheard echoes of laughter shared between old friends, and customers called out by name from chefs and staff alike.
We rounded off our meal with a recommendation for a lively spot to get a drink, and James Griffin Pub certainly fulfilled the brief. Fresh off the back of winning Best Tourist Pub in the East at the Irish Pub Awards, there was a buzz in the air and the sweet, sweet sound of cocktails being shaken over ice. One pint of Guinness and a Pink Lady cocktail, my good sir.
From Newgrange to Slane Castle
The second day of our excursion began at Brú na Bóinne visitor’s center — a trip that should absolutely be on everyone’s bucket list. Meaning ‘palace’ or ‘mansion’ of the Boyne, it refers to the area within the bend of the River Boyne that contains one of the world’s most important prehistoric landscapes, dominated by the passage tombs Knowth, Newgrange, and Dowth.
Oftentimes, when we’re learning about these Neolithic and Stone Age monuments in school, it can be difficult to truly understand and appreciate their significance. However, thanks to our tour guide Aengus, these 5,000-year-old structures were brought to life on a sunny November morning.
From tales of how the people who occupied these areas watched the sky like a television, tracking the movements of the moon, planets and stars, to seeing what is thought to potentially be the oldest sundial in existence, it’s honestly mind-blowing — and that was all before we witnessed a simulated version of the sunrise alignment at Newgrange, set to take place during the Winter solstice.
From ancient history to living history, Slane Castle was the next item on the agenda. Home to the Conyngham family since 1703, our tour guide Tina provided all the insider knowledge and hot gossip that made our trip around the castle feel like something more akin to a girls’ bathroom chat than an educational immersion.
Playing host to many high-profile events ranging from intimate weddings to 80,000 capacity Summer concerts, Slane Castle has quite the reputation for providing an incredibly unique day out. Currently under the ownership of Henry Mount Charles — the 8th Marquess Conynghaman and ‘rock and roll aristocrat’ — and occupied by his son and family on the top level, it’s quite the experience to see a building steeped in so much historical and cultural significance be beckoned into the modern era so completely.
Throughout the tour, we were regaled with stories about the Conyngham Family, the history of the building, and all about the concerts that have been held at the venue over the years, ranging from Bob Dylan, Guns ‘N Roses and Bruce Springsteen to Red Hot Chilli Peppers, David Bowie and Queen. We walked through the room where The Rolling Stones slept, and stood where U2 recorded The Unforgettable Fire, scoping out pictures and posters throughout of these music legends as we made our way around.
In 1991, the castle was nearly lost to a devastating fire. Alerted by a concerned neighbour, adrenaline took Henry Mount Charles through a pane of glass and into the burning building to save as many family heirlooms and precious artefacts. The restoration process took 10 years, but when it reopened in 2001 as a hospitality and accommodation venue, it was rebuilt on the music of rock and roll.
Listoke Distillery
Once an acceptable drinking time rolled around, myself and my chauffeur made our way to Listoke Distillery & Gin School for what would become the highlight of our trip. Shown around by the lovely Oisin, we were given an absolute schooling on all things gin, botanicals, and distillation.
Though I was the one willing and able to imbibe while she stayed sober in order to drive us back to the hotel, it was my sister who remarked that the selection of botanicals bear a striking resemblance to the ingredients of a good curry — and you know what? She wasn’t wrong.
At this point, I would like to extend our sincere gratitude to Oisin for putting up with our barrage of questions and incessant chit-chat, all of which were handled with the utmost patience. From the process of selecting our botanicals or taking us on a tour of the distillery while we waited for our own signature spirit to be siphoned off, we were well and truly taken care of.
A family-run business that just so happened to be the first distillery to pivot into producing hand sanitiser when the pandemic hit, Listoke are big on sustainability and supporting local, which is evidenced in their First Sip Society. A premium box delivered right to your door each month, they produce a limited run of unique varieties — from chocolate inferno to tropical state of mind — and ship them out with some top-tier local products.
Bound for Boyne Valley
After a delicious meal at The Bailey Bar in Trim Castle Hotel and an early night in our plush room, the last item on our Boyne Valley bucket list was a walking tour around the Hill of Slane. Guided by the owner of a local pub who eats, sleeps and breathes the local history, we embarked up the 158m include and drank in the views that extend as far as the Hill of Tara, which stands 16km away. Among the ruins of a Franciscan Monastery, is a tower dating from 1512, built on the site of a monastery founded by a follower of St. Patrick.
As the legend goes, it was here that Saint Patrick lit a Paschal fire in defiance of the pagan High King Laoire, who was so impressed with his devotion that he allowed him to continue with his missionary work. Many (many) years on, this location has become a hugely popular spot among tourists and locals alike, with guided tours crossed paths with those out for their morning stroll.
Throughout our weekend in the Boyne Valley, the rainy weather paid off any and all chances of embracing the natural waterways and outdoor activities that this region has in abundance, but both Boyne Boats and Boyne Valley Activities would have been top priorities. Regardless of the puddles and the dodging of raindrops, this trip provided a true education and some exceptional craic — what more could you want from an Irish staycation?
An area run by the friendliest locals you’re likely to come across, they’ll welcome you in like one of their own, give you a list a mile long of recommendations, and leave you with a genuine appreciation for the power of loving your locality.
Sarah Gill was a guest of Fáilte Ireland, whose ‘Keep Discovering’ campaign is encouraging people living in Ireland to experience the joy of discovering the many hidden gems that Ireland has to offer. If you need inspiration on where to go and what to do, visit discoverireland.ie.
For more staycation inspiration, check out our reviews of The Causeway Coast and Limerick's Greenway.
