Rob Kenny shares his guide to a solo trip to Prague, including a list of LGBTQ+ friendly spots in the city.
As a self confessed lover of solo travel, there is always a niggling thought in the back of my mind about where my travels will take me next, which often leads me to checking my Google work calendar, deciphering the next weekend that will suit my next solo European adventure.
Like so many European cities we’re blessed to have on our doorstep, Prague's architecture is, of course, world renowned. I think it was the unique building landscape, plus the fact I had never been to Eastern Europe, that Prague became the next destination for my itchy feet to visit.
One of the first things I had heard from passing tour guides was how uniquely unharmed Prague had been by the World Wars. Where so many of Europe’s most beautiful cities were badly damaged, the city's gorgeous buildings are still standing today in all of their glory.
Widely known as the city of 100 spires, any architecture enthusiast will enjoy the many Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Rococo architecture that blanket the city, often even combined together in the one building, after generations of additions.
Getting out of my taxi from the airport and pulling up to my old town Prague AirBnB, the first thing I noticed was how distinctly Czech the buildings are. They alone were worth a visit.
Take to the streets
Something I always do at the beginning of a city break abroad is to simply take to the streets and walk around. If, like me, you enjoy a city's architecture there is no better way to experience it. It also is a fantastic way to get your bearings in a city and start to feel your way around.
If you're not sure where to start, aim to walk along the river Vltava, as so many landmarks tend to be located in or around the water. There are also many boat tours leaving from the riverside you can jump on. This will cost you roughly €15 euro. They last about 40 minutes and give you a good central riverview of the city.
Avoid the tourist traps
I chose to book my accommodation in the Old Town of Prague as it is the most centrally located part of the city. However, I liken the bars and restaurants here to Temple Bar in Dublin as they are a bit of a tourist trap, so I wouldn't recommend eating out here. Instead, I would recommend staying in a trendy neighbourhood area such as Karlín or Vinohrady.
Book a bike tour
Biking around a city never appealed to me, but after enjoying a great experience once in Copenhagen, it is a must do for me now on most city breaks. In Prague, you meet in the city centre at their office (I went with these guys).
This was actually an e-bike tour, which was a first for me. There is some exercise involved, so it is not a complete loss for getting some movement in, but the electric side mostly kicks in during the inclines and harder parts of the cycle, which makes it much less daunting tackling a hilly city.
Our tour guide was super friendly, fluent in English, and had so many fun facts about the city. She took us through some gorgeous parks, and of course to many of the leading landmarks. It was a brilliant way to see the city, meet new people, and see some sides to Prague that I may not have otherwise. One of my favourite moments was stopping at the Lennon Wall.
Book a beer guide tour*
If you're a solo traveler, you'll likely have used the Airbnb experiences tool. If not, be sure to check it out as they have an array of great activities for you to experience whilst you are abroad. I found the 'Pubs of Prague Historic Tour’ guide through this Airbnb tool.
Priced at €48 per person, it is by no means a pub crawl, and is a great way to be led through some of the city's most famous pubs, most with really interesting and ancient histories - and all led by locals. Prague is world-famous for its beer and anyone who has been there before will tell you a beer tour in some shape or form is a must. Admittedly, I am not the biggest beer fan and even I can admit that it was delicious.
Visit Prague Castle
When you search "What to do in Prague?", the first thing you will come across will undoubtedly be Prague Castle. Looking over the entire city, it is here that you will find the intricate, complex and ancient St. Vitus Cathedral cathedral which is surrounded by the Old Royal Palace and St. George's Basilica.
As gorgeous as this area is to explore on your own, with the captivating buildings and views, I advise booking a tour guide as it is hard to digest so much history alone. I booked mine through Tripadvisor, which meant I got to skip the queues.
The tour of the entire complex takes about three to four hours but you are told you can do it in sections if you wish, as the passes don’t expire by date. This is a fascinating way to learn about the steep history of Prague and is definitely a must do.
Where to eat
Casual cophistication
Knowing I wanted to spend the evening bar hopping the gay bars, I put some time researching for good restaurants in the trendy Vinohrady district (Prague’s main gay neighbourhood).
I ended up in Aromi, an Italian restaurant that allows walk-ins. It was nicely busy with a great atmosphere, and the décor was beautiful. The wine was to die for and there were no complaints from me about the food or the service.
It was quite interesting to see how many more fashionable crowds there are socialising here, as fashion is not something that instantly jumps out at you when you think about the city. My food highlight was by far the truffle tagliolini to start.
Although this is casual sophistication, I was surprised at the end by the bill, as it was a little more expensive than I was hoping at €167 (remembering that the cost of living in the Czech Republic is generally lower than Ireland).
We need your consent to load this Instagram contentWe use Instagram to manage extra content that can set cookies on your device and collect data about your activity. Please review their details and accept them to load the content.Manage Preferences
Vibey and buzzy
On my second night, I wanted to switch up my dinner restaurant choice for somewhere super stylish with great cocktails and a buzzy atmosphere. My research led me to book Soul Love. Here, I enjoyed a vibrant atmosphere (as well as some cocktails.) The restaurant delivered a tapas style dinner from head chef Takeshi Ito and I savoured every minute of it. Definitely a must-visit with main courses starting from €13.25 and cocktails from €10.
We need your consent to load this Instagram contentWe use Instagram to manage extra content that can set cookies on your device and collect data about your activity. Please review their details and accept them to load the content.Manage Preferences
A memorable experience
Field was the highlight of my entire trip. With all solo traveler fear well gone from me, I booked myself in for a seven-course tasting menu at the renowned fine-dining establishment.
As soon as I arrived I was instantly impressed. With attentive staff and simplistic Scandinavian-style décor, the venue was an overall treat for the senses. I highly recommend going with the set dinner menu with curated and carefully selected wine pairings.
Priding themselves on their seasonal menus and meals in their cuisine in its raw and unembellished form, I can safely say that Field Restaurant is not one to miss if you are stopping by Prague. Of course, with any fine dining restaurant of this calibre, it is such a treat and cost approximately €120.
Even though Prague is noticeably cheaper than Ireland, I was surprised with the bill at the end of my meal as it was far more affordable than what you would pay at home for a dining experience of this level.
Queer Guide
For any other LGBTQ+ travelers out there, here is my brief breakdown of my Prague Gay Guide:
Piano Bar
Piano Bar has been central to the Prague queer space for more than 25 years and is one of the oldest gay bars in Czech Republic. With previous history as both a bakery and a dance hall, it is now somewhere for the LGBTQ+ community to gather and feel seen. After renovations in 2016, the modern and spacious club became bigger and better. I found it super welcoming and would definitely recommend a visit.
We need your consent to load this Instagram contentWe use Instagram to manage extra content that can set cookies on your device and collect data about your activity. Please review their details and accept them to load the content.Manage Preferences
The Saints
The Saints is a small gay bar located in the gay epicentre of the city, Vinohray. They pride themselves on their warm and friendly service and attempt to try and bring something new to the Czech gay scene.
What I found lovely was that all of the bar staff were from all over the world, but they all had exceptional English, making it stress-free trying to get a drink from the bar. They host regular events and quiz nights which makes it a bit less daunting as a solo traveler.
Between the friendly atmosphere and the smaller venue it was the closest venue that I could liken to Dublin, I would also highly recommend it.
We need your consent to load this Instagram contentWe use Instagram to manage extra content that can set cookies on your device and collect data about your activity. Please review their details and accept them to load the content.Manage Preferences
Termix
I was quite hesitant heading into club Termix after reading a mix of reviews online. Many had slated the cold atmosphere of the club, and noted issues with payments and bar staff, while others had given it high praise.
I would say I had an okay experience here but it was my least favourite out of the clubs and bars I went to. It wasn’t overly friendly or accommodating and the music wasn’t to my taste so I didn’t spend much time there. With the amount of great bars and clubs in Prague, I would personally say you could give this one a miss.
Takeaways
Overall, I had an undeniably gorgeous long weekend in Prague and would not take it back, however, for my own personal tastes, it is admittedly not near the top of my list. While I enjoy a more stylish rooftop bar experience, Prague is more about the homey pub aesthetic.
If you are a lover of fashion and style like myself, cities like Madrid, Paris and Copenhagen may be more up your ally. Overall, though, I found Prague well worth a visit. Many of the Czech nationals I encountered were so friendly and lovely and the architecture was undeniably stunning.
You can follow Rob Kenny's adventures here.
*If you are affected by any of the issues raised in this article, you can visit Ask About Alcohol
The views expressed here are those of the author and do not represent or reflect the views of RTÉ
